If you have spent enough nights sleeping outdoors, you learn that choosing a backpacking tent is rarely about one specification.
Weight matters. Pack size matters. Weather protection matters. But so do setup, ventilation, usable space, durability, and the simple question of whether you actually enjoy spending time inside the shelter.
That is where the Kelty Microlight Tent becomes interesting.
The Microlight is associated with an earlier generation of lightweight Kelty backpacking shelters, built around a straightforward philosophy: keep the shelter reasonably light, practical, and accessible without turning it into an ultralight science project.
For backpackers shopping the used market, comparing older Kelty designs, or simply wondering whether a Microlight still makes sense against today's lighter tents, there is plenty to consider.
So, is the Kelty Microlight Tent worth it?
For the right type of camper, yes. But it depends heavily on which Microlight configuration you have found, its age and condition, and what kind of backpacking you do.
In this review, we'll look beyond marketing language and examine the Microlight from a practical backcountry perspective: weight, livability, weather protection, ventilation, durability, setup, campsite selection, and how it compares with modern backpacking shelters.
Kelty Microlight Tent at a Glance
The name Microlight has appeared across different Kelty product generations and configurations, so specifications can vary by production year and version. That is especially important if you're buying one secondhand.
Rather than treating one historical specification as universal, use this general profile:
| Category | Kelty Microlight |
|---|---|
| Shelter type | Lightweight backpacking tent |
| Typical capacity | 1–2 person configurations depending on version |
| Design philosophy | Lightweight, practical backpacking |
| Structure | Pole-supported tent |
| Primary use | Three-season camping |
| Strengths | Practicality, portability, established design |
| Potential weakness | Older versions can be heavier than newer ultralight shelters |
| Best environment | Established trails, forests, mountains and three-season routes |
| Buying consideration | Condition and exact model generation are important |
If you're shopping for a used Microlight, check the exact model label before comparing specifications.
An older tent can differ significantly from a newer tent carrying a similar name.
What Makes the Kelty Microlight Interesting?
Modern backpacking has become obsessed with grams.
That obsession isn't entirely bad. A lighter backpack generally means less energy spent carrying equipment, particularly over long distances.
But there's a useful distinction between lightweight and ultralight.
A lightweight shelter attempts to reduce unnecessary mass while retaining conventional features and a familiar camping experience.
An ultralight shelter may go much further, using:
Trekking poles instead of dedicated poles
Very thin fabrics
Minimalist vestibules
Fewer zippers
Smaller structural margins
Highly optimized components
The Microlight belongs more naturally to the first category.
That can actually be an advantage for many campers.
You aren't necessarily buying a shelter designed around the absolute lowest possible number on a scale. You're buying a practical backpacking shelter intended to be usable in the real world.
Kelty Microlight Weight: Is It Still Lightweight?
This is one of the most important questions in a modern review.
A tent that was considered lightweight 10 or 20 years ago may not look particularly light by today's standards.
Advances in:
Silicone-coated fabrics
High-strength lightweight nylon
Polyester tent materials
Aluminum poles
Carbon-fiber components
Trekking-pole tent architecture
Manufacturing techniques
have pushed the weight of many modern shelters downward.
For perspective, today's mainstream two-person backpacking tents can often fall around 3–5 pounds, while dedicated ultralight two-person shelters may approach or fall below 2 pounds, depending on construction and what is included.
That does not automatically make an older 3-pound-class shelter a bad product.
If a tent weighs an extra pound but offers significantly better durability, easier setup, more generous space, or greater weather resistance, the tradeoff may be completely reasonable.
The right way to compare tent weight
Never compare advertised weights without checking what is included.
Calculate:
Tent body + rainfly + poles + stakes + guylines + required accessories = actual shelter weight
This is especially important when comparing older tents with modern ultralight shelters.
A tent that appears to be dramatically lighter may require additional components to achieve its advertised setup.
The Real Question: How Much Weight Should You Carry?
A useful backpacking rule is to consider base weight, which is the weight of your backpacking equipment before consumables such as food, water and fuel.
Many lightweight backpackers aim for a base weight somewhere around 10–20 pounds, while ultralight hikers may target less than 10 pounds.
These aren't laws.
Your shelter might represent 15–25% of your entire base weight, depending on your gear system.
That means saving one pound can be meaningful.
But it should not be the only objective.
Consider a hypothetical 15-pound base weight:
A 4-pound shelter represents about 27% of base weight.
A 3-pound shelter represents 20%.
A 2-pound shelter represents about 13%.
That difference becomes increasingly important over long mileage.
But if dropping from 3 pounds to 2 pounds requires sacrificing features you genuinely value, the lighter tent isn't automatically the better choice.
Kelty Microlight Space and Livability
This is where older backpacking tents can still have an advantage.
The ultralight industry has produced remarkably efficient shelters, but efficiency and spaciousness are not always the same thing.
A tent's floor dimensions tell only part of the story.
You also need to consider:
Peak height
Wall angle
Floor shape
Headroom
Door position
Vestibule size
Gear storage
Interior width
Usable corners
Two tents with identical floor areas can feel completely different inside.
Why floor area isn't enough
Imagine two shelters with approximately the same floor area.
One has steep walls and a high peak.
The other has heavily sloping walls.
Technically, both have the same floor footprint.
In practice, the first can feel dramatically larger because more of its volume is actually usable.
This is one reason experienced campers pay attention to three-dimensional livability, not simply square footage.
Is the Microlight Comfortable for One Person?
If you're using a one-person configuration, the Microlight can provide a useful balance between sleeping space and packability.
For solo backpacking, you don't necessarily need a large floor.
But there's an important distinction between sleeping space and living space.
A solo tent should ideally provide enough room to:
Store essential gear
Change clothes
Sit up
Organize your backpack
Escape rain
Prepare for sleep without constantly touching the walls
If a shelter gives you only enough room to lie down, it may be technically adequate but practically frustrating.
What About Two People?
If you are considering a two-person version, remember that "two-person" generally means two people can sleep inside—not that two people will have abundant personal space.
This distinction applies to almost every backpacking tent.
Two adults with full-size sleeping pads and sleeping bags can occupy most of a tent's usable floor.
Then add:
Shoes
Clothing
Water bottles
Electronics
Food
Backpacking packs
and things get crowded quickly.
For couples who spend extended time inside their shelter during bad weather, a roomier two-person or even three-person shelter can sometimes be worth the additional weight.
Weather Protection: Where the Microlight Needs to Be Judged Carefully
A three-season backpacking tent needs to handle much more than sunshine.
Real backcountry conditions can include:
Heavy rain
Gusty wind
Condensation
Cold nights
Wet ground
Occasional hail
Blowing debris
The important question isn't whether a tent is technically waterproof.
A better question is:
How well does the complete shelter system manage water?
That includes:
Rainfly coverage
Seam construction
Floor design
Door protection
Vestibule design
Ventilation
Pitch quality
Site selection
A well-designed shelter can still leak if it is poorly pitched.
Likewise, a tent with excellent waterproof materials can become uncomfortable if ventilation is neglected.
Waterproofing Starts With Your Campsite
One of the most useful outdoor skills you can learn has nothing to do with buying gear.
Learn to read terrain.
Avoid pitching your tent:
In dry creek beds
At the bottom of depressions
Immediately beside rivers
Beneath unstable slopes
Under dead branches
On visibly saturated ground
Water follows gravity.
A campsite that looks perfectly dry at 5 p.m. can become a temporary drainage channel during a nighttime storm.
Look for subtle signs of water flow
Before pitching:
Examine the surrounding terrain.
Identify the highest practical sleeping area.
Look for channels or erosion marks.
Check vegetation patterns.
Avoid depressions.
Consider where water will flow if rain intensifies.
A good tent in a bad campsite is still a bad shelter system.
Wind Performance: The Forgotten Tent Skill
Many campers judge a tent's weather performance based almost entirely on waterproofing.
Wind can be just as important.
A useful concept is wind loading.
As wind speed increases, the force acting on exposed surfaces rises quickly. In simplified physical terms, aerodynamic pressure is proportional to the square of wind speed.
That means a significant increase in wind speed can create a disproportionately larger load on your shelter.
You don't need to calculate pressure at camp.
Instead, remember:
Strong wind rewards good orientation and good anchoring.
For windy conditions:
Point the tent's more aerodynamic end toward prevailing wind when practical.
Use all appropriate guy points.
Stake the corners securely.
Tension the rainfly evenly.
Keep the fly from rubbing against the inner tent.
Avoid exposed ridgelines unless necessary.
Check the stability of surrounding trees.
This is especially important with older tents whose fabrics, poles or shock cord may have experienced years of use.
Ventilation and Condensation
One of the most common complaints about tents isn't leakage.
It's condensation.
Your body continuously releases moisture through breathing and perspiration. Overnight, that moisture can accumulate inside a shelter.
A simple example:
A sleeping person exhales hundreds of milliliters of water over the course of a night, although the actual amount varies substantially with temperature, activity, humidity and physiology.
Add wet clothing, damp ground, rain and low nighttime temperatures, and condensation becomes even more likely.
How to reduce condensation
Use these techniques:
Open vents whenever weather permits.
Keep the rainfly positioned correctly.
Avoid pressing sleeping bags against tent walls.
Don't bring unnecessary wet gear into the sleeping area.
Choose a site with some natural airflow.
Avoid pitching directly beside stagnant water when practical.
Wipe accumulated moisture from the fly when necessary.
Condensation is not necessarily evidence that a tent is defective.
Often, it's simply the result of moisture meeting a cold surface.
Learning to manage it is an important backpacking skill.
Setup: Is the Kelty Microlight Easy to Pitch?
One reason conventional pole tents remain popular is their familiarity.
You have:
Dedicated poles
A defined tent body
A rainfly
Stakes
A predictable pitching sequence
For someone transitioning from car camping to backpacking, this can be much easier to understand than a highly minimalist trekking-pole shelter.
The Microlight's traditional architecture can therefore be appealing to campers who prioritize straightforward setup over shaving every possible ounce.
A reliable setup sequence
A good routine looks like this:
Select a suitable campsite.
Remove sharp rocks and branches that could damage the floor.
Lay out the tent body.
Assemble the poles.
Connect the poles to the tent body.
Stake the primary corners.
Attach and tension the rainfly.
Stake vestibules and guylines as needed.
Check that the fly is not contacting the inner tent.
Open or adjust vents according to weather conditions.
After several trips, this should become almost automatic.
What Makes a Good Tent Pitch?
A common beginner mistake is to think that "pitched" means "standing."
It doesn't.
A good pitch should have:
Even tension + proper alignment + adequate ventilation + effective drainage + stable anchoring.
If the fly is loose, water may collect in sagging areas.
If the fly is too tight in one direction and loose in another, wind performance can suffer.
If the inner tent touches the rainfly, moisture can transfer through the contact point.
Learning to pitch a tent well can improve performance more than spending hundreds of dollars on a slightly more advanced model.
Durability: Does an Older Kelty Microlight Still Hold Up?
This is perhaps the most important consideration when buying a used Microlight.
Age matters.
Tent materials can deteriorate over time even when a tent hasn't been heavily used.
Inspect:
Rainfly coating
Floor coating
Seam tape
Pole sections
Pole shock cord
Webbing
Buckles
Zippers
Mesh
Stitching
Guyline attachment points
Pay special attention to the waterproof coating
If a polyurethane or similar coating has begun to deteriorate, you may notice:
Sticky fabric
Flaking
Peeling
Powdery residue
Unusual odor
Sections that no longer repel water effectively
A tent can look almost perfect externally and still have compromised waterproofing.
That's why buying a used shelter based solely on photographs is risky.
How to Inspect a Used Kelty Microlight
If you find one at a garage sale, outdoor gear exchange, or used-equipment marketplace, perform this inspection before handing over your money.
Tent body
Check for:
Tears
Abrasion
Burn holes
Broken mesh
Damaged stitching
Rainfly
Look for:
Peeling coating
Cracking
Pinholes
Seam problems
UV damage
Poles
Inspect every section.
Make sure:
Segments connect properly.
Ferrules aren't cracked.
Shock cord still provides adequate tension.
Pole tips and fittings are intact.
Zippers
Open and close every zipper several times.
A zipper that already sticks badly at home isn't likely to improve during a storm.
Floor
Look carefully at corners and high-stress areas.
The floor experiences considerable abrasion from:
Sleeping pads
Knees
Gear
Dirt
Repeated packing
Condition can matter more than original retail price when evaluating an older tent.
The Kelty Microlight in Rain
For ordinary three-season backpacking, a properly maintained Microlight can provide useful rain protection.
But there is an important distinction between waterproof and floodproof.
No backpacking tent should be treated as an absolute barrier against water under every possible condition.
Your objective is to create a complete moisture-management system.
That means:
Correct pitch
Good site selection
Proper fly tension
Closed doors during heavy rain
Functional seams
Adequate ventilation
Dry gear management
A useful rainy-night technique
Before entering the tent in heavy rain, take 30 seconds to prepare.
Put wet clothing and rain gear in an appropriate location.
Shake excess water from your jacket outside.
Open the tent carefully.
Enter quickly.
Close the door.
It sounds trivial, but keeping unnecessary water outside the shelter is much easier than drying the inside later.
Summer Camping and Hot Weather
A shelter that performs beautifully in cool weather can become uncomfortable in summer.
The problem is not just temperature.
It's airflow.
Warm, humid air trapped inside a shelter can make sleep difficult even when the outside temperature isn't extreme.
When conditions allow:
Maximize cross-ventilation.
Keep doors open under the rainfly when insects permit.
Orient the shelter to take advantage of natural airflow.
Avoid unnecessarily sealing every opening.
Remember that ventilation is a performance feature, not merely a comfort feature.
Three-Season vs. Four-Season: Don't Confuse Them
The Microlight should generally be viewed as a three-season backpacking concept, not a dedicated mountaineering shelter.
Three-season shelters are optimized for conditions such as:
Spring
Summer
Fall
Four-season tents are designed around substantially more demanding conditions, including heavy snow loading and severe alpine weather.
A four-season tent typically uses:
Stronger poles
More robust fabrics
Fewer mesh panels
More enclosed construction
Structural features designed for snow and high winds
That extra protection comes with weight.
Don't take a lightweight three-season shelter into an environment that demands a true winter mountaineering tent simply because the forecast looks acceptable.
Weather can change rapidly in mountain environments.
Backpacking in Cold Weather
For shoulder-season trips, your tent is only one component of your sleep system.
Think about the entire system:
Shelter + sleeping bag/quilt + sleeping pad + clothing + site selection
Your sleeping pad deserves particular attention.
The R-value of a sleeping pad describes its resistance to heat flow. Higher R-values generally provide greater insulation from cold ground.
This is particularly important because the ground can remove heat from your body efficiently.
A warm sleeping bag paired with an inadequately insulated sleeping pad can still result in a cold night.
Kelty Microlight for Thru-Hiking
Would I take an older Microlight on a long-distance trail?
Potentially—but I'd evaluate it carefully.
Thru-hiking changes the equation.
A shelter may be used:
Dozens of nights
Hundreds of miles
In repeated rain
In strong wind
During frequent packing and unpacking
That means durability and repairability become increasingly important.
A tent that is slightly heavier but mechanically simple and proven can sometimes be more appealing than a delicate ultralight shelter.
However, if you're trying to reduce a 25–30 pound pack toward a much lighter setup, an older tent can become an obvious place to save weight.
The decision depends on your hiking style
Choose the Microlight if:
You already own one.
It's in excellent condition.
You value conventional setup.
You don't mind carrying some additional weight.
You prioritize durability and practicality.
Consider a newer ultralight shelter if:
You're building a lightweight system from scratch.
You hike very high mileage.
Every ounce matters.
You are comfortable with minimalist shelter designs.
Kelty Microlight vs. Modern Ultralight Tents
The biggest difference isn't necessarily quality.
It's design philosophy.
Older lightweight tents were often designed around conventional expectations:
Dedicated poles
Full tent body
Separate rainfly
More substantial materials
Straightforward pitching
Modern ultralight tents increasingly use:
Trekking poles
Thin fabrics
Hybrid structures
Smaller components
Minimal hardware
More aggressive weight optimization
Which approach is better?
Neither universally.
A traditional lightweight tent can be the better choice for someone who:
Camps casually
Shares gear with family
Wants easy setup
Values robust materials
Doesn't want specialized techniques
An ultralight shelter may be better for someone who:
Hikes long distances
Counts every ounce
Already understands minimalist gear
Uses trekking poles
Is comfortable with more careful setup
Kelty Microlight Pros
1. Practical backpacking design
The Microlight represents a straightforward approach to lightweight shelter construction.
2. Familiar setup
Campers accustomed to traditional pole tents can understand the system quickly.
3. Potentially excellent value on the used market
An older tent can be inexpensive compared with premium modern shelters—provided it is still in good condition.
4. More conventional construction
For some campers, this is preferable to highly minimalist designs.
5. Good option for beginning backpackers
You don't need to learn an entirely new shelter philosophy to use a conventional pole tent.
6. Useful balance between weight and functionality
Although newer shelters can be lighter, the Microlight doesn't necessarily sacrifice every practical feature in pursuit of minimum weight.
Kelty Microlight Cons
1. Older versions may feel heavy by modern standards
Backpacking technology has moved forward significantly.
2. Model variations complicate specifications
Don't assume every Microlight has identical dimensions or weight.
3. Used condition can be a major concern
Waterproof coatings and pole components age.
4. Less cutting-edge than modern ultralight shelters
If your goal is the absolute lowest shelter weight, newer designs will likely be more competitive.
5. Pack volume may be larger
Dedicated poles and conventional construction can require more pack space than trekking-pole shelters.
Is the Kelty Microlight Good for Beginners?
Yes, especially if you find a clean, functional example at a reasonable price.
A beginner's first backpacking shelter doesn't need to be the lightest shelter on the market.
In fact, I would argue that beginners should prioritize:
Reliable weather protection
Reasonable weight
Simple setup
Adequate space
Good ventilation
Durability
Affordable replacement or repair
Once you've spent 10–20 nights backpacking, you'll understand much better what you actually want from your next tent.
You may discover that you want:
More headroom
Less weight
A larger vestibule
Better ventilation
A two-door design
More privacy
More storm protection
Your first tent should teach you what your second tent needs to be.
Is the Kelty Microlight Worth Buying Used?
This is where I think the Microlight becomes particularly interesting.
If you can find one that has been carefully stored and lightly used, it may offer excellent value.
But don't buy it simply because the price is low.
A $50 tent with a failing waterproof coating isn't necessarily a bargain.
A $100–150 tent in excellent condition may be a much better purchase if it gives you years of reliable use.
My used-gear checklist
Before buying, ask:
How old is it?
How often was it used?
Was it stored completely dry?
Was it stored loosely or compressed?
Has it been exposed to prolonged sunlight?
Are the seams intact?
Is the floor coating healthy?
Is the rainfly coating healthy?
Are the poles straight?
Does the shock cord still work?
Do all zippers operate smoothly?
Are there repairs?
Is the original stuff sack included?
If the seller cannot answer basic questions about storage and condition, proceed cautiously.
How to Extend the Life of a Kelty Microlight
Older outdoor equipment can last surprisingly long when maintained properly.
After every wet trip
Don't simply stuff the tent into a closet.
Instead:
Remove dirt and debris.
Separate the tent body and rainfly.
Air-dry everything completely.
Inspect seams and coatings.
Check poles and guylines.
Store the tent dry.
Avoid long-term compressed storage
Leaving technical fabrics compressed for extended periods isn't ideal.
For long-term storage, a loose storage configuration is generally preferable to keeping the shelter tightly packed in its tiny trail sack.
Protect the tent from unnecessary UV
Ultraviolet radiation can degrade outdoor fabrics over time.
This is especially relevant to tents used repeatedly in sunny environments.
A tent is camping equipment, not permanent outdoor furniture.
Smart Campsite Selection for the Microlight
One of the best skills you can develop has nothing to do with the brand printed on your tent.
It's campsite selection.
Look for:
Slightly elevated ground
Natural drainage
Stable soil
Protection from severe wind
Reasonable airflow
Safe distance from falling branches
Low-impact camping areas
Avoid:
Depressions
Stream channels
Dead trees
Loose rockfall zones
Extremely exposed ridges during storms
Fragile vegetation
When backpacking in established areas, follow local camping regulations and Leave No Trace principles.
A good backpacker doesn't simply minimize pack weight.
They also minimize their impact on the landscape.
What Professional Outdoor Gear Testing Really Looks Like
A useful gear review shouldn't ask only, "Is this tent good?"
It should ask:
Good for whom?
Professional gear evaluation usually considers several dimensions simultaneously.
Performance
Does it protect against expected environmental conditions?
Weight
How much does the complete system weigh?
Durability
How well does it tolerate repeated use?
Usability
Can a normal camper set it up correctly?
Livability
Is there enough usable space for real-world activities?
Value
Does the performance justify the price?
Context
Does it match the environment where the buyer intends to use it?
This last category is frequently overlooked.
A fantastic desert shelter can be a poor choice for a rainy forest.
A huge family tent can be a terrible choice for a solo thru-hiker.
Outdoor gear is contextual.
So, Is the Kelty Microlight Tent Worth It?
After looking at the complete picture, my answer is:
Yes, but mainly when the price, condition, and intended use line up.
The Kelty Microlight remains interesting because it represents a practical generation of backpacking equipment that sits between traditional camping tents and today's highly optimized ultralight shelters.
It isn't necessarily the lightest option available today.
It doesn't need to be.
Its value comes from offering a balanced backpacking experience without requiring the user to optimize every gram or learn an elaborate shelter system.
If you already own a Microlight in good condition, I wouldn't replace it simply because newer tents are lighter.
If you're considering buying one used, inspect the waterproof coatings, poles, seams, zippers and fabric carefully.
If you're starting a brand-new ultralight backpacking setup, however, it makes sense to compare its actual packed weight, interior space and condition against current-generation shelters.
My Kelty Microlight Rating
For an older lightweight backpacking shelter, I'd evaluate it approximately like this:
| Category | Rating |
|---|---|
| Weight | 7/10 |
| Livability | 8/10 |
| Weather protection | 8/10 |
| Ventilation | 7/10 |
| Setup | 8/10 |
| Durability | 8/10 when well maintained |
| Packability | 7/10 |
| Beginner friendliness | 9/10 |
| Used-market value | 9/10 if condition is excellent |
| Modern ultralight competitiveness | 6/10 |
| Overall | 8/10 |
The rating is intentionally conditional because the exact Microlight generation and its current condition matter enormously.
Final Verdict: Who Should Buy the Kelty Microlight?
Buy it if you:
Want an affordable backpacking tent
Find a well-maintained used model
Prefer conventional pole-supported shelters
Are new to backpacking
Don't need the absolute lightest shelter
Value practical construction
Primarily camp during three-season conditions
Think twice if you:
Are building an ultralight thru-hiking setup
Need a shelter under roughly two pounds
Regularly carry high-mileage loads
Want maximum interior space for minimum weight
Need the latest generation of ultralight materials
Are buying an old example with questionable waterproofing
Skip it if:
The waterproof coating is failing
The poles are damaged
The fabric has significant UV degradation
Multiple structural components need replacement
The weight is excessive for your intended backpacking style
In other words, the Kelty Microlight isn't valuable simply because it has a Kelty label. It's valuable when the particular tent in front of you is structurally sound and fits the way you camp.
The Bigger Lesson: A Backpacking Tent Is More Than Its Weight
After years of camping, one of the biggest lessons I've learned is that the lightest shelter isn't automatically the best shelter.
Your tent is part of the experience that happens after the miles.
You arrive tired.
You need to get organized.
Maybe it starts raining.
You need to change clothes.
You might cook dinner.
You may spend several hours inside waiting for a storm to pass.
You need somewhere to put your gear.
And eventually, you need to sleep.
That means the best backpacking shelter has to balance several competing priorities:
Weight + durability + weather protection + space + ventilation + usability + packability
Reducing weight is important.
But reducing weight at the expense of everything you actually need isn't efficiency.
It's simply subtraction.
The most thoughtful shelter designs ask a different question:
How much can we remove without making the experience worse?
And that question is becoming increasingly important as backpacking evolves.
About HillZero
HillZero is a premium outdoor design brand focused on Livable Backpacking Tents. Its philosophy is simple: Carry Less. Live Better. HillZero believes backpacking should not be defined only by how far you can walk or how little your pack weighs. The experience after arriving matters, too.
Through its Livable Backpacking approach, HillZero considers the complete backcountry experience—including walking, arriving, resting, organizing gear, staying dry, cooking, observing nature, privacy, ventilation, movement and spending meaningful time inside and around the shelter. The brand's central design question is: “How can a backpacking tent be easier to carry, without making it harder to live in?”
Beginning with the Scott 2P, HillZero is developing backpacking tents that seek a more natural balance between carrying efficiency and livability. Rather than pursuing the absolute lowest weight or simply adding material for more space, HillZero focuses on the features that are genuinely worth carrying.
HillZero — Livable Backpacking Tents.
Carry Less. Live Better.
Light enough to carry. Livable enough to stay.
Rethinking Backpacking. Beyond the Miles.