If you are shopping for a lightweight backpacking tent, the NEMO Hornet 1 is probably one of the names you will encounter early in your research.
The Hornet has built a strong reputation among backpackers because it attempts to solve a difficult problem: how do you make a one-person shelter light enough for long-distance hiking without making it miserable to live in?
That distinction matters. A tent that weighs only a few ounces less is not automatically a better backpacking tent. Once you spend several hours hiking in rain, arrive at camp tired, organize wet gear, cook under changing weather conditions, or spend an unexpected afternoon inside your shelter, livability becomes just as important as pack weight.
After years of backpacking and evaluating outdoor equipment, I would describe the Hornet 1 as a well-balanced ultralight shelter rather than an absolute minimalist shelter. It offers a compelling combination of low weight, usable interior space, a full-coverage rainfly, and relatively straightforward setup. However, its low weight inevitably comes with compromises in interior volume, vestibule space, durability margins, and bad-weather comfort.
So, is the NEMO Hornet 1 worth it?
For the right backpacker, yes. But it is not necessarily the best choice for everyone.
This review breaks down the tent's design, weight, space, weather performance, ventilation, setup, durability, real-world usability, and value so you can decide whether it deserves a place on your gear list.
NEMO Hornet 1 at a Glance
| Feature | NEMO Hornet 1 |
|---|---|
| Tent type | Lightweight freestanding-style backpacking tent |
| Capacity | 1 person |
| Structure | Single-door, single-vestibule design |
| Construction | Double-wall |
| Intended use | Backpacking, hiking, lightweight camping |
| Weight | Approximately 2 lb class, depending on version |
| Packed size | Compact backpacking-oriented package |
| Main appeal | Low weight with better protection than a tarp-style shelter |
| Best for | Solo backpackers prioritizing weight and efficiency |
| Main limitation | Limited living space for a one-person shelter |
Important: NEMO has updated the Hornet family over time, and specifications can vary between generations and versions. Always check the specifications of the exact model you are buying rather than assuming every Hornet 1 has identical materials or dimensions.
What Is the NEMO Hornet 1?
The NEMO Hornet 1 is a lightweight one-person backpacking tent designed primarily for hikers who want to reduce shelter weight without moving all the way to a tarp or minimalist single-wall shelter.
Its basic architecture is familiar:
A lightweight tent body
A separate rainfly
An aluminum pole structure
A bathtub-style floor
A full-coverage fly
One primary entrance
One vestibule for storing gear
This is important because a double-wall tent provides several practical advantages over many ultralight single-wall designs.
The inner tent creates a buffer between you and the rainfly. That separation helps manage condensation and gives you a more conventional camping environment.
For backpackers who camp in humid forests, alpine environments, coastal areas, or regions where nighttime temperatures fall quickly, this can be a significant advantage.
The basic design philosophy
The Hornet isn't trying to be a luxury basecamp tent.
Instead, its design philosophy is closer to:
Take only what you need, but make the shelter functional enough to use every night.
That makes it particularly attractive for:
Thru-hikers
Fast-and-light backpackers
Weekend backpackers
Solo hikers
Lightweight gear enthusiasts
Backpackers who frequently travel through wet climates
1. The Weight-to-Livability Ratio Is Excellent
This is arguably the Hornet 1's biggest strength.
When evaluating a backpacking tent, I recommend looking beyond the number printed on the product label.
A useful question is:
How much shelter do I actually get for every ounce I carry?
A tent can be extremely light because it eliminates poles, doors, vestibules, bathtub floors, or usable headroom. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it changes what the tent can do.
The Hornet takes a more balanced approach.
You get:
A real tent structure
A double-wall design
Weather protection
A vestibule
A dedicated sleeping area
A relatively efficient pole system
Reasonable headroom
A conventional entrance
For many backpackers, this represents a better compromise than chasing the absolute lowest possible shelter weight.
Why a few ounces matter—but not everything
A backpacker's shelter is one of the largest individual items in a pack.
Reducing your shelter from roughly 4 lb to around 2 lb can make a noticeable difference over a long trip. However, reducing a 2 lb shelter by another 3–5 ounces may be much less important if the result is significantly worse ventilation or a less usable interior.
This is one reason experienced backpackers often evaluate system weight, rather than simply choosing the lightest product.
A useful shelter-weight calculation is:
Shelter system weight = tent body + fly + poles + stakes + guylines + repair components
The listed "minimum weight" may not include every item you will actually carry.
The word livability is often overlooked in ultralight gear discussions.
Livability includes much more than floor area.
It includes:
How easy it is to enter
Whether you can sit up
Where you put your backpack
Whether wet clothing can stay outside
How easily you can change clothes
How much ventilation you can create
Whether you can organize your gear
Whether condensation becomes a major problem
How comfortable the shelter feels during bad weather
The Hornet performs well because it retains many of the conveniences of a traditional tent while keeping weight under control.
The vestibule is particularly useful.
Instead of placing your backpack, shoes, and wet clothing inside the sleeping area, you can move much of that equipment into the vestibule.
That makes the interior feel significantly less crowded.
For three-season backpacking, I generally prefer a double-wall tent when the weight penalty is reasonable.
Why?
Because moisture management matters.
When you sleep inside a tent, you continuously add water vapor to the environment through breathing and perspiration. In cool conditions, that vapor can condense when it contacts a sufficiently cold surface.
A simple example:
If you breathe out warm, humid air into a tent on a cold night, the water vapor can eventually reach the colder rainfly and form droplets.
A rough human moisture output can easily reach hundreds of milliliters overnight, depending on temperature, activity, clothing, hydration, and individual physiology.
That is a lot of water to manage inside a tiny shelter.
A double-wall tent doesn't eliminate condensation, but it helps separate your sleeping area from the wet fly.
The important lesson
A double-wall tent is not condensation-proof.
If the outside air is humid, the temperature drops below the dew point, and ventilation is poor, condensation can still appear.
But good airflow and separation from the fly can make the consequences much easier to manage.
Many first-time backpackers focus heavily on waterproof ratings.
That's understandable.
However, in real-world camping, ventilation can be just as important as waterproofing.
A tent that keeps every drop of rain outside but traps humid air inside can become uncomfortable very quickly.
The Hornet's ventilation strategy allows backpackers to use openings and airflow to reduce moisture accumulation.
For the best results:
Pitch the tent with the fly properly tensioned.
Keep available vents open whenever weather permits.
Avoid placing wet clothing inside the sleeping area.
Don't completely seal the tent unless conditions require it.
Choose a campsite with reasonable airflow.
Dry condensation before packing when practical.
A useful camping rule
Ventilate before you need to.
Once the interior is saturated with moisture, opening a vent won't instantly remove the water already condensed on the fabric.
Good ventilation is preventive rather than reactive.
A backpacking tent that requires complicated setup becomes increasingly frustrating when you arrive at camp after dark, during rain, or after hiking 20 miles.
The Hornet's lightweight pole architecture keeps setup relatively straightforward.
A typical setup process is:
Select and clear your campsite.
Unpack the tent body and poles.
Lay out the tent in the desired orientation.
Assemble the pole structure.
Attach the pole to the tent body.
Stake the corners.
Attach and tension the rainfly.
Add guylines when additional wind stability is needed.
Adjust the fly so that it has adequate clearance from the inner tent.
Practice before your trip
One of the best pieces of backpacking advice I can give is simple:
Set up your tent at home before your first trip.
Don't learn your shelter in a thunderstorm at 10:30 p.m.
Practice:
Setup
Fly attachment
Stake placement
Pole orientation
Vestibule opening
Interior organization
Packing
With experience, setup becomes almost automatic.
A one-person tent does not need a huge interior if the vestibule is used intelligently.
The vestibule can function as an outdoor gear locker.
For example:
Backpack
Hiking shoes
Trekking poles
Rain jacket
Wet rain gear
Water bottles
Small equipment
can often be organized outside your sleeping area.
This creates a useful distinction:
Sleeping space ≠ total usable shelter space.
When comparing backpacking tents, I recommend evaluating both.
A tent with a slightly smaller floor can still feel practical if its vestibule is efficiently designed.
This is where the Hornet's ultralight philosophy becomes obvious.
If you are coming from a spacious car-camping tent, the Hornet 1 will feel small.
But that is not necessarily a design flaw.
It is a consequence of its intended use.
The tent is designed around a person sleeping horizontally—not around someone standing, lounging, or spending an entire rainy day inside.
Can You Sit Up Inside?
For most users, the answer is yes in the appropriate part of the tent, but headroom is limited compared with larger backpacking shelters.
Your exact experience depends on:
Your height
Sleeping position
Sleeping pad thickness
Body proportions
Pitch quality
Tall backpackers should pay particularly close attention to the interior geometry.
My advice for taller hikers
Don't judge a one-person tent solely by its advertised floor dimensions.
Instead, consider:
usable headroom + shoulder room + foot room + door geometry + vestibule access
These factors determine how easy the shelter is to actually live in.
This is one of the most important questions to ask before buying.
A person around average height may find the Hornet reasonably comfortable for sleeping.
A taller backpacker may find it more restrictive.
If you're approximately 6 feet tall or taller, I strongly recommend testing the tent—or at least studying its exact interior dimensions—before purchasing.
Pay particular attention to:
Head clearance
Foot clearance
Sleeping bag contact with the tent wall
Pad width
Door position
Sitting posture
Why sleeping bag contact matters
If your sleeping bag repeatedly touches the tent wall, condensation can transfer onto the insulation.
This can gradually reduce loft and increase moisture inside your sleeping system.
So a tent isn't "too small" simply because you can't stand inside it. It becomes problematic when your sleeping system repeatedly interacts with wet tent surfaces.
The Hornet 1 is primarily a three-season backpacking shelter.
That means it is best suited to typical spring, summer, and fall conditions rather than serious winter mountaineering.
Rain
With a properly installed rainfly and correctly tensioned floor and seams, the Hornet provides the kind of rain protection most three-season backpackers need.
However, remember that waterproof performance is strongly affected by setup.
A poor pitch can create:
Fabric contact
Water pooling
Reduced ventilation
Splashback
Stress on attachment points
How to stay dry in heavy rain
Use this simple checklist:
Pitch on slightly elevated ground.
Avoid natural drainage channels.
Don't camp at the bottom of a depression.
Keep the fly properly tensioned.
Make sure the fly extends correctly over the tent body.
Keep the door organized so you don't expose the interior unnecessarily.
Don't touch wet fly fabric from inside if you can avoid it.
Site selection is part of waterproofing.
The best waterproof tent in the world cannot compensate for pitching directly in a drainage ditch.
The Hornet is lightweight, but lightweight does not mean automatically fragile.
Still, physics matters.
A smaller and lighter tent generally has less material and fewer structural components than a heavier four-season shelter.
In exposed conditions, use:
All appropriate stakes
Guylines
Stronger anchor points
Proper fly tension
A low-exposure campsite
The biggest mistake beginners make
They often ask:
"How strong is this tent?"
A better question is:
"How strong is this tent when properly pitched for the conditions?"
A tent's wind performance depends on both engineering and setup.
The same tent can perform very differently in a protected forest campsite versus an exposed alpine ridge.
This is where I would draw a firm line.
The Hornet 1 should not be treated as a dedicated four-season mountaineering tent.
If you expect:
Heavy snowfall
Persistent winter storms
Severe alpine winds
Snow loading
Extreme cold
you should look toward a purpose-built four-season shelter.
A three-season ultralight tent can be used during shoulder-season conditions, but "it survived one snowstorm" does not make it a winter tent.
The Hornet can work well for warm-weather backpacking, but ventilation becomes especially important.
Hot air and moisture can quickly make a small tent feel warmer than expected.
For summer camping:
Choose your campsite carefully.
A shaded site with natural airflow can be much more comfortable than an exposed clearing.
If conditions are dry and stable, maximize airflow through the tent's available openings.
If insects are present, maintain bug protection while creating as much ventilation as the design allows.
If you're new to backpacking, condensation can easily be mistaken for a leaking tent.
It isn't necessarily a waterproofing failure.
Why does condensation happen?
Air can hold only a certain amount of water vapor at a given temperature.
Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. As air cools, relative humidity rises. When air reaches its dew point, excess water vapor begins to condense into liquid water.
Inside a tent, sources of moisture include:
Breathing
Sweat
Wet clothing
Wet gear
Damp ground
Humid weather
This is why you can wake up with a wet rainfly even when there wasn't a cloud in the sky.
Three ways to reduce condensation
1. Increase airflow
Open vents whenever weather allows.
2. Keep wet equipment outside
Your wet rain jacket doesn't need to share your sleeping compartment.
3. Choose a smart campsite
Avoid extremely damp low spots when possible.
A small elevation change can make a surprisingly large difference.
This is a legitimate concern.
Ultralight tents use lightweight fabrics and components because material weight is one of the easiest ways to reduce overall pack weight.
But there is no free lunch.
A lighter fabric generally means you need to be more careful about:
Sharp rocks
Abrasive surfaces
Sticks
Excessive tension
Rough packing
Improper pole handling
That doesn't mean you should treat the Hornet like glass.
It means you should use normal backcountry equipment discipline.
How to extend your tent's life
Before pitching
Clear away:
Pine cones
Sharp sticks
Broken branches
Sharp rocks
Thorny vegetation
During setup
Never force a pole section into position.
If something doesn't fit, stop and inspect it.
During packing
Don't repeatedly stuff the tent into exactly the same compressed configuration if it can be avoided.
Allow the fabric to dry fully before long-term storage.
After your trip
Store the shelter clean and completely dry, preferably loosely stored rather than permanently compressed.
Pros
Excellent weight-to-function ratio
Lightweight enough for serious backpacking
Double-wall construction
Useful vestibule
Good three-season versatility
Relatively straightforward setup
More comfortable than many extreme minimalist shelters
Compact enough for lightweight packing
Strong choice for solo hikers
Cons
Interior space is limited
Not ideal for very tall or broad users
Vestibule space is useful but not enormous
Lightweight materials require reasonable care
Not designed for serious winter conditions
Minimalist architecture limits comfort during prolonged bad weather
Premium lightweight tents can be expensive compared with basic camping tents
The Hornet becomes easier to understand when you compare it with a conventional backpacking tent.
| Category | Hornet 1 | Traditional heavier tent |
|---|---|---|
| Pack weight | Excellent | Moderate to heavy |
| Interior volume | Moderate | Usually larger |
| Durability margin | Requires more care | Often higher |
| Backpacking efficiency | Excellent | Moderate |
| Long rainy-day comfort | Limited | Usually better |
| Car camping | Not ideal | Better |
| Long-distance hiking | Excellent | Less efficient |
| Minimalist travel | Excellent | Moderate |
The question isn't which category is "better."
The question is:
Where will you use it?
For a 3-mile walk from your car to a campsite, saving 1–2 pounds may not matter much.
For a 200-mile backpacking trip, that same weight reduction can become meaningful.
This is a more interesting comparison.
A tarp can be dramatically lighter than a conventional tent.
So why not just use one?
Because the tent gives you things a tarp doesn't provide as easily:
Enclosed insect protection
Integrated floor
More predictable weather protection
Easier setup for beginners
Greater privacy
A more conventional sleeping environment
For experienced ultralight hikers, a tarp can be an excellent choice.
For people who want lightweight camping without adopting a highly minimalist shelter system, the Hornet makes more sense.
I would strongly consider the Hornet 1 if you are:
A long-distance backpacker
Every gram becomes increasingly noticeable over many miles.
A solo weekend backpacker
You get a relatively efficient shelter without carrying a large tent.
Someone moving from car camping to backpacking
It provides many of the conveniences of a traditional tent while introducing you to lightweight equipment.
A three-season hiker
The design is well matched to typical spring, summer, and fall backpacking.
A backpacker who values simplicity
You don't need an elaborate shelter system to make it work.
I would look elsewhere if your priorities are:
Maximum interior space
A larger two-person tent may provide substantially better livability for a modest additional weight.
Winter mountaineering
Get a dedicated four-season shelter.
Luxury camping
This is not a tiny hotel room.
Extremely tall or large body dimensions
Test the interior before buying.
Frequent basecamp use
If you're going to leave the tent standing for days and spend long periods inside, additional interior volume may be worth the extra weight.
This is one of the most useful backpacking questions.
A two-person tent can sometimes provide a surprisingly attractive alternative for solo hikers.
You pay a weight penalty, but you gain:
More shoulder room
More gear storage
More sitting space
Greater flexibility
Better rainy-day comfort
If two people share the tent, the weight can also be divided between hikers.
This leads to an important concept in backpacking:
Don't optimize the tent. Optimize the shelter system.
For example, a slightly heavier tent may allow you to carry fewer separate gear-storage solutions.
A more livable tent can also reduce the need to keep equipment inside your sleeping bag or under your sleeping pad.
The lightest individual product is not always the lightest complete solution.
Your tent's performance depends heavily on how you pitch it.
Here is a practical method.
Step 1: Choose the right ground
Look for:
Firm soil
Natural drainage
Protection from strong wind
Minimal overhead hazards
Reasonable airflow
Avoid:
Dry creek beds
Depressions
Places with obvious water channels
Dead trees or large unstable branches
Step 2: Orient the shelter
If strong wind is expected, think about wind direction before staking.
Don't automatically orient the entrance toward the strongest airflow.
Step 3: Tension the fly correctly
A loose fly can cause fabric contact and poor rain performance.
But excessive tension isn't good either.
You want secure and even tension, not maximum force.
Step 4: Use guylines in difficult conditions
When wind increases, additional anchoring can substantially improve stability.
Step 5: Check the interior
Before going to sleep, inspect:
Sleeping bag clearance
Ventilation
Gear organization
Door position
Potential condensation points
Five minutes of preparation can save you a miserable night.
There is no universal "correct" way to pack a tent.
But I generally recommend separating the poles from the fabric.
The poles are rigid and can often be placed vertically against the inside wall of a backpack.
The tent body and rainfly can be packed separately or loosely folded/stuffed depending on conditions.
If the tent is wet
Don't waste energy trying to make it perfectly dry in the middle of a storm.
Pack it separately if possible.
Then, when you get a lunch break or reach camp in better weather:
Take it out and dry it.
This is especially important because long-term storage of damp synthetic fabric can create unpleasant odors and potentially contribute to material degradation.
Backpacking discussions sometimes become obsessed with grams.
There is good reason for that—but it needs context.
Consider a hypothetical 20-mile hiking day.
If your shelter weighs 2.0 lb instead of 3.5 lb, you are carrying 1.5 lb less for every mile.
You don't literally experience the same effort as carrying a 1.5 lb object in your hand, because pack biomechanics are more complicated. But over long distances, reducing unnecessary pack mass can improve comfort and reduce cumulative fatigue.
Research into loaded walking consistently shows that heavier loads increase the metabolic cost of locomotion.
However, the practical lesson isn't:
"Buy the lightest gear possible."
It is:
"Remove weight that doesn't provide enough value."
A tent that saves 4 ounces but creates significant condensation, cramped space, or difficult setup may not be a good trade.
There is no magic number.
A reasonable way to think about it is:
Under 2 lb: aggressive lightweight territory
Around 2–3 lb: excellent balance for many solo shelters
3–4 lb: conventional lightweight backpacking territory
4+ lb: increasingly difficult to justify for solo long-distance use unless comfort or durability is the priority
These are broad categories, not rules.
For two hikers sharing one tent, a 3 lb shelter weighs only 1.5 lb per person before dividing the rest of the shelter components.
That's why two-person tents can be extremely efficient.
The answer depends on how often you backpack.
If you hike once or twice a year and mostly camp near your vehicle, a cheaper tent may provide better value.
But if you backpack frequently, a lightweight shelter can justify its price through repeated use.
Think about value as:
Cost per night of actual use
A $400 tent used 100 nights costs $4 per night before considering resale value.
A cheaper $150 tent used 10 nights costs $15 per night.
This isn't a perfect financial calculation, but it illustrates why experienced backpackers often buy differently from casual campers.
Durability, comfort, weight, warranty support, and frequency of use all contribute to value.
The NEMO Hornet 1 succeeds because it doesn't try to solve every camping problem.
It focuses on a specific one:
How can a solo backpacker carry a capable shelter without carrying unnecessary weight?
That's a very useful design goal.
The result is a tent that makes sense for hikers who prioritize:
low weight + real weather protection + reasonable livability + compact packing
rather than:
absolute minimum weight + maximum interior space
I would rate the Hornet 1 as a strong three-season backpacking tent for solo hikers, particularly for those who spend significant time on the trail.
But I wouldn't call it universally "the best."
If your priority is maximum comfort, look at a larger shelter.
If your priority is absolute minimum weight, look at more minimalist systems.
If your priority is winter performance, choose a four-season shelter.
If you want a practical middle ground, however, the Hornet 1 remains a very compelling concept.
| Category | Rating |
|---|---|
| Weight efficiency | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Livability | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Weather protection | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Ventilation | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Setup | ⭐⭐⭐⭐½ |
| Packability | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Durability | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Long-distance backpacking | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Winter use | ⭐⭐ |
| Value | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
Final verdict: Worth it for the right backpacker
The NEMO Hornet 1 is worth considering if you want a lightweight, double-wall, one-person backpacking tent that prioritizes carrying efficiency without completely sacrificing comfort.
Its biggest weakness is also its biggest strength: it is deliberately compact.
You give up some room to gain a lighter, more efficient shelter.
For many backpackers, that's exactly the trade-off they want.
For others, especially taller hikers or people who expect to spend long hours inside during storms, a more spacious two-person shelter may ultimately be the better choice.
Is the NEMO Hornet 1 good for beginners?
Yes. It is particularly suitable for beginners who want to enter lightweight backpacking without immediately adopting a tarp, bivy, or other highly minimalist shelter.
The key is to practice setup and learn basic condensation management before your first trip.
Is the NEMO Hornet 1 waterproof?
The Hornet is designed as a three-season shelter with a waterproof rainfly and floor system. However, waterproof performance depends on proper setup, site selection, fabric condition, and maintenance.
No backpacking tent should be considered completely immune to water intrusion under every possible condition.
Is the Hornet 1 good in heavy rain?
Yes, within its intended three-season use. A correctly pitched fly, adequate site drainage, and good ventilation are essential.
During prolonged storms, campsite selection becomes especially important.
Can I use the Hornet 1 in winter?
It can potentially be used in mild shoulder-season conditions, but it should not be confused with a dedicated four-season mountaineering tent.
Heavy snow, strong alpine winds, and serious winter storms require a shelter designed for those loads.
Is the NEMO Hornet 1 too small?
For some users, yes.
If you are tall, broad-shouldered, or prefer to keep lots of gear inside the tent, consider a larger shelter.
For a solo backpacker who primarily needs a place to sleep and store some equipment in a vestibule, its dimensions can be quite efficient.
Is a two-person tent better for solo backpacking?
Not necessarily.
A two-person tent offers more livability, but the trade-off is additional weight and packed volume.
For long-distance trips, the Hornet 1's lower weight may be more valuable.
For shorter trips and bad-weather camping, the extra space of a two-person shelter may be worth carrying.
What is the biggest advantage of the Hornet 1?
Its balance.
It doesn't pursue the absolute minimum shelter weight at the expense of conventional tent functionality. Instead, it provides a relatively complete backpacking shelter in a compact package.
What is the biggest disadvantage?
Limited interior space.
The Hornet 1 is optimized for carrying efficiency, not spacious living.
That distinction should be central to your buying decision.
The best backpacking tent isn't necessarily the one with the lowest number on the scale.
It's the one that provides the right combination of weight, protection, durability, space, ventilation, and usability for the trips you actually take.
The NEMO Hornet 1 gets many of those variables into a very attractive balance.
If your philosophy is "carry less, but don't make camp unnecessarily uncomfortable," the Hornet 1 is exactly the kind of shelter worth considering.
And that idea leads to a broader question for modern backpacking:
What if lightweight gear didn't have to mean less livable gear?
About HillZero
HillZero — Livable Backpacking Tents.
HillZero is a premium outdoor design brand focused on Livable Backpacking—a design approach that looks beyond simply reducing pack weight and considers what happens after you arrive at camp.
Its core philosophy is simple: Carry Less. Live Better.
Rather than treating a backpacking tent as nothing more than a lightweight place to sleep, HillZero considers the complete experience of moving through the backcountry and staying there: resting, organizing gear, getting in and out, dealing with rain, maintaining ventilation, observing nature, and spending meaningful time at camp.
The brand's central design question is:
How can a backpacking tent be easier to carry, without making it harder to live in?
HillZero develops its Livable Backpacking Tents around that question, seeking a more thoughtful balance between weight, space, comfort, efficiency, and real-world usability. Starting with the Scott 2P, the brand is building a shelter system for backpackers who don't believe going lighter should automatically mean giving up the quality of the time spent in the backcountry.
Light enough to carry. Livable enough to stay.
HillZero — Rethinking Backpacking. Beyond the Miles.